Dr. Kevin Lester, a semi-retired orthopedic-surgeon, has launched Lesterland Winery, turning a hobby into a commercial venture. Photo by Frank Lopez

What began as a decades-long passion for local wine enthusiasts has become a new small winery founded by a business owner with big ambitions.

About a year and a half ago, Dr. Kevin Lester, a local orthopedic surgeon, launched Lesterland Winery in Fresno, using his 40 years of winemaking experience with grapes that he grows, as well as the harvest of other local farmers.

The venture began with Lester and his friends and their shared passion for winemaking as they all approached semi-retirement. They wanted to learn more about the winemaking process, embracing the belief that “grapes are meant to become wine.”

Lester has a special focus on a unique Croatian wine that won double gold at the Orange County Wine Competition two years ago, the Cetiri Special Reserve 4.

He was introduced to the wine by one of his patients, Peter Kupina, who would make his own wine and give to him and his friends.

After Kupina’s death, they sent specimens of the locally grown grape to UC Davis to try to find out the variety, but they couldn’t figure it out.

“He taught me how to make it and he taught me all the subtleties about it too,” Lester said. “It’s genuinely a unique grape. Nobody knows what it is.”

A friend of Lester’s grew four acres of the particular grape with plans to give him the bounty for free. Lester bought the tanks and winemaking equipment.

“I was kind of forced into it,” Lester said. “He was nice to me for growing it, and I was nice to him by making the wine. Now we have to market it.”

The facility is located on property near his home off Van Ness Boulevard along the San Joaquin River, where he grows some of the grapes used in his wines.

Along with the Cetiri wine, Lesterland also produces Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Zinfandel, Dessert Port, Honey Mead, and a limited release Beaujolai Nouveau called “Celebration.” It’s a reference to Beaujolais Nouveau Day which is celebrated in France on Nov. 3 each year to mark the release of the new vintage.

After attending Fresno State for a few years, Lester attended San Diego State University, then later joined the Air Force and the National Guard, leaving the armed forces to attend medical school, and then specialist school.

After leaving for school in 1968, he eventually returned to Fresno in 1984.

In the early years of his winemaking journey, Lester and friends made wine the old fashioned way by crushing the grapes with their feet. He just bought the industrial tanks to make his wines last year.

Lesterland’s winemaking set up is a lot more sophisticated now, but Lester said he is still learning something every day.

While the grapes and wineries in regions such as Napa and Paso Robles have been lauded as the highest quality, Lester said the Central Valley also has great grapes for wine making.

Lester said no chemicals are used on the grapes, with the vineyard weeders team consisting of ducks and guinea fowl.

Lesterland wines can be found locally at the Sierra Swim and Racquet Club, The Market on West and Herndon avenues, the Meat Market in Pinedale and at DiCicco’s, Mike’s Pizzeria and Popolo’s Pizza.

Lester said the consumption of different types of wine cycle in and out of style, with consumers buying stronger wines some years and sweeter ones in other years.

He noted that wine is not as popular as it used to be with young people as seltzer-based alcoholic beverages overtake the market. But he added wine’s popularity ebbs and flow in seven-year cycles.

Lester said the main focus will be on marketing their Ceteri wine, and that the whole business is taking more time and work than he thought — but he is having fun.

“I’m hoping I sell a lot of wine this November,” Lester said. “At $13 dollars a bottle I hope people start giving it to their friends. It’s good wine and it supports a local guy.”